The Amalfi Coast in Italy has always been on my list of places to travel. I’ve always admired the colorful buildings on the cliff and longed to see it in real life. Last summer we planned three days on the Amalfi Coast and decided to stay in the town of Positano. To say it was a dream come true would be an understatement. I fell in love with this town! This isn’t the first time I’ve fallen in love with a city I visited. My vacations to Paris and Quebec City had a similar impact on me, but Positano is different. It was an oasis secluded from the rest of the country, that still maintained the classic old-school Italian feel and a simpler way of life.
We sandwiched this stop on our two-week European vacation last year. We started in Budapest and ended in Rome (stay tuned for travel guides from those stops, too). In between we spent three nights and days in Positano. I recommend three or even four nights in order to experience the culture and relax Amalfi style. While we did everything we had wanted, I could have used one more day of the beach and delicious seaside restaurants.
In this travel guide I’ll be sharing all the good details on Positano including how to get there, where to stay and what to see or do. Be sure to check out my insider tips along the way.
How To Get There
Getting to Positano (and the Amalfi Coast in general) isn’t easy, they really make you work to get there. However it is so worth it in the end. Your options will undoubtedly include some mix of planes, trains and automobiles. From Rome, Positano is about a 3 to 4 hour car ride depending on traffic. We flew into Ciampino, which is the smaller airport in Rome and took a private car to Positano.
This was not our original plan, however, it worked out perfectly. We originally set out to rent a car and drive ourselves. We drove the entire French country side the year before and we’re pretty confident driving in a foreign country. The day before we were set to leave we learned that Italy (unlike France) required foreigners to have an international driver’s license in order to rent the car. And, oops, we didn’t have one! We went into panic mode and were able to secure a private car in a few hours, however it was at a premium. Completely our fault, but lesson learned!
Having the private driver was great as they provided a personalized tour the entire ride and gave some great tips on what to do and see when we got to Positano. The one tip we received was to take a train to Sorrento (from Rome) and then take a private car from Sorrento. This option would be a lot cheaper and would let you see Sorrento. Yet another lesson learned 🙂
And for my personal insider tip, if you get motion sickness take dramamine before getting into the car. Even if you get a little car sick, take it. It’s not worth it to be sick on this drive, it’s absolutely stunning, however its hilly and very curvy!
Where To Stay
Hotel Villa Franca
This was actually our second choice for a hotel, and it’s situated higher up on the cliff, which means a longer walk to the beach. The website calls it a dream amidst the sea and sky and I have no doubt that it lives up to that description. The views from this vantage point are amazing (we ate down the street from the hotel one night). This property is more modern and has a rooftop pool. We ultimately decided to stay at sea level so we passed on this property.
Le Sirenuse
A popular location amongst the American travelers, this property is top of the line and offers more American accommodations. Located midway up the cliff with a view of the iconic colorful cliffside this hotel has several dining and lounge options.
Covo Dei Saraceni
We stayed at this property and were blown away by our choice. We loved it here! The Covo Dei Saraceni is located at the bottom of the cliff and mere steps from the beach. It’s next to the main shopping district and has easy access to the boat docks that can take you to many other spots in the Amalfi Coast. The rooms are modest and have authentic Italian decor, however you will be spending 90% of the time outside the room so it doesn’t really matter.
The hotel offers breakfast everyday with a large assortment of European favorites and American staples. It also boasts one of the best outdoor decks and pool. With two pools, including a standard pool and an infinity pool overlooking the sea. Insider tip, be prepared to walk a lot of stairs to get around, being located to the bottom of the cliff, you have nowhere to go, but up!
The breakfast area had a cozy view of town.
The view from our room. How adorable is the table and chairs on this balcony? We sat out there every night before going out.
Where To Eat And Drink
Chez Black
Located steps from the famous Positano Beach, this restaurant is iconic Positano. It’s been there since 1939 and still has the glamorous ambiance. The restaurant is known for their fresh seafood dishes and beautifully painted colorful plates for each course. You’ll want to take a plate home with you as a souvenir. Insider tip, make a reservation ahead of arriving on the island and order something with fresh seafood. You won’t be disappointed at all.
Caffe Positano
This tiny street side Cafe is just that…street side. Their outdoor patio is midway up the cliff and directly next to the street with a breathtaking view of the sea. They have classic pasta dishes and delicious wine. It’s a decent meal, however, the setting is what makes it out of this world. Insider tip, get the mussel, they are prepared with simple ingredients, but packed with flavor.
Restaurant Bruno
This sidewalk restaurant is high up on the cliff looking over the classic colorful village of Positano. The setting is amazing and the food is delicious too. Go around sunset to view the cliff in daylight and nighttime. Insider tip, grab a table on the sidewalk away from the main outdoor patio, its like your the only person dining on the cliff. I highly recommend the carbonara, it was one of the best dishes I had in Positano.
Da Adolfo
A secluded beach club that serves up fresh seafood for lunch daily. It’s only reachable by boat and reservations are needed. It’s pretty hard to get into this spot so I would recommend having your concierge try to get you in.
Franco’s Bar at Le Sirenuse
Looking for a modern fun night out? This is the spot! A super swanky bar that is located at the top of the cliff at Le Sirenuse. This hot spot serves up delicious classic cocktails. Get their around sunset and order an aperol spritz and sit back and enjoy!
Insider Tips For Eating and Drinking
- Grab gelato at any store or stand you see, you won’t be disappointed. They are all delicious. We had gelato at least twice a day. There is something about fresh gelato and a view of the Amalfi cliffs.
- Have limoncello at the end of your meals. It’s the most popular digestivo in the country and Positano takes it to another level. It’s on every menu and sold in every store. Pick up a small bottle to take home with you.
- Drink like a local and order an aperol spritz to drink poolside or beach-side. It’s a simple classic cocktail that everyone drinks there because it’s refreshing and delicious. You’ll have one and it will be your favorite cocktail.
What To Do
Lounge at the Beach
Grab a chair and spend a full day at the beach and live it up! Rent a couple of chairs for the day and it comes with an umbrella and a waiter to order drinks and bottles of wine. You can then take a dip in the sea and come out to enjoy a bottle of Italian Wine while looking at the colorful buildings on the cliff. Insider tip, bring or buy water shoes! The beach is 100% rocks, your feet with thank you later.
Day Trip to Capri
Take a day trip to the island of Capri. Ferries leave the port in Positano every morning and bring you back in the late afternoon. While there is a lot to do in Capri, I would recommend taking the old school chair lift in Anacapri. It will take you to the highest peak of the island and the views are amazing. The famous Grotta Azzura is located here. It’s only accessible by row bow, so the faint of heart should probably not enter.
Rent a Boat
There is nothing like seeing the beautiful cliffs of the Amalfi coast than by boat. Book a boat cruise either private or shared to experience Positano like a local. You can just cruise the sea or have them take you to the infamous Grotta Dello Smeraldo. Several people have recommended Grassi Junior and had wonderful experiences with them.
Shopping
Take time to visit all the local shops which are located pretty much everywhere in Positano. Most of these stores are family-owned with multiple generations working in them. They carry everything from handmade shoes, beachwear and glass treasures including the brightly hand painted dishes you see at every restaurant. I personally fell in love with a store called Antica Sartrio and bought many things. It’s a women’s clothing store offering scarfs, dresses and accessories that are authentically Positano.
Writing this post makes me want to return to Positano right now! Have any of you been or are you thinking of going? Let me know what you loved or are looking forward to seeing on the Amalfi Coast in the comments below. Looking for more European Travel Guides, check out my France Guides here, here and here!
No matter what time of day it is, this is the most breathtaking view I’ve ever seen!
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